You Say Tomato, I Say the Taste of Summer
Summer produce is peaking now and restaurants around town are celebrating the most glorious of summer fruits, the tomato. Yes, botanically, a tomato is a fruit but nutritionists consider it a vegetable so everyone can be right next time the discussion comes up.
Caprese salads seem to be on every menu year-round, but that doesn’t mean you should order one in December. It’s hard to beat a great caprese salad that uses the best, most flavorful and seasonally fresh tomatoes to balance the neutral creaminess of the cheese. For me, the best tomatoes have a sweet-tart taste, sometimes they have a natural hint of an aromatic such as garlic on the palate.
If you’re craving the ‘mater, here are some fine options for you to explore.
Carbone Dallas is the super fancy Design District restaurant that’s known for its pricey, sophisticated Italian food. Chef Mario Carbone created a seasonal menu that embraces tomatoes of different varieties and preparation methods. The menu includes two new items that are exclusive to the Dallas outpost of Carbone: Veal Milanese and Scallops Riserva. Other seasonal items are a caprese salad, spaghetti pomodoro, and lasagna verde. If anyone has access to the very best, most flavorful tomatoes, it’s going to be Mario Carbone. These items are available through August. Book here.
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Van Leeuwen Ice Cream opened its third scoop shop in Dallas this week and offers a limited time sundae created by its new next-door neighbor, Revolver Taco Lounge. The Nieve de Rancho Sundae is two scoops of vanilla bean ice cream topped with salsa roja tomato marmalade, queso fresco, and fresh mint. It’s an interesting play on sweet and savory and really works. This is only available at the Deep Ellum location for a limited time. 2649 Main Street, Deep Ellum, Dallas.
Eataly is highlighting the Isle of Capri for a summer special and offers a fun Caprese bar. Makes sense since the Caprese salad was first created and served there. Diners can choose the ingredients for their ideal Caprese salad from the cart that wheels up to their table. Choices include a Classica with house-made mozzarella, the Burrata which uses Liuzzi Burrata, and the Treccia di Mozzarella, which uses braided mozzarella. Eataly Dallas, NorthPark Center, Dallas.
Parigi has a patio that is actually enjoyable right now thanks to a cool front. It offers a gorgeous Caprese salad that includes cherry tomatoes and tomato jam. It also feels just a bit like you’re in Paris without the Olympic torch or crowds. Parigi, 3311 Oak Lawn Avenue, Dallas. Book here.
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Heritage Table is a highly acclaimed farm-to-fork restaurant in Frisco. Were it not for its location in Collin County, which is not part of Michelin’s Dallas County purview, it could well get some attention. Here’s an example of why: Chef Richard Vana’s Tasting Menu Farm & Harvest salad is made with hyper local produce like tomatoes from Jubilant Fields and Comeback.
See the powder on the tomato? It’s s a combination of smoked tomato powder and powdered fermented fresno hot sauce. Chef takes tomato trimmings, smokes them and then dehydrates and powders them. Bet you’ve never had tomato quite like that. Worth the drive. Heritage Table 7110 Main Street, Frisco. Book on OpenTable.
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Here’s a bonus, if you’re a fan of Tomato Mayo sandwiches as most southerners are, buy yourself this adorable t-shirt from one of my favorite media outlets, Bitter Southerner.