Kersten Rettig: How Dakota’s Steakhouse Fares After 40 Years
Does anyone remember when Linda Evans assured us all that “Being 40 isn’t fatal?” Indeed, those of us who have turned 40 can attest that life continues to be great after passing that milestone.
Is the same true for restaurants? It depends on the restaurant, but with the upcoming 40th birthday of Dakota’s Steakhouse, I would say that 40 is fabulous and the future is bright.
Making its debut in 1984, Dakota’s was an instant classic. The intriguing location, one story below ground in the heart of downtown Dallas, below a Baptist church of all places, was buzzworthy. The food and ambiance? People raved about it, and it was a lunch and dinner hot spot for power brokers, celebrities, lovebirds, and families alike.
On the eve of its 40th anniversary, Dakota’s is, perhaps, better than ever.
Owned and managed by Tim and Meredith McEneny and their chef/partner Ji Kang, Dakota’s is refreshed in body and spirit, with an expanded underground patio and a top chef at the helm.
Meredith McEneny, who officially became Dakota’s new owner in 2021, and I spent an afternoon on the back patio of Sugar and Sage, the delightful pastry and coffee shop on Lovers Lane. The business owner, licensed therapist, wife, and mother of two is effortlessly chic. Wearing a crisp white blouse and black slacks, two beaded bracelets on her wrist that read “Joy” and “Strength,” gifts from her girls, Meredith’s calm demeanor belies her responsibilities.
“How do you balance restaurant life and a family?” I asked her before adding,” I’m fully aware that if I were sitting here with Tim right now, I wouldn’t ask him that question.” She laughed and replied, “It’s what we do.” She makes it look easy.
Meredith shies away from accepting my praise for her role in the company’s success, but her influence is respected and appreciated. She gives credit to Tim, who she describes as persistent, optimistic, and determined and, I would add, as energetic as she is chill, and Ji, a creative and technical mastermind.
“Meredith is our North Star at Dakota’s Steakhouse,” says Chef Ji Kang. “More times than I can count, we have all said, ‘What would Meredith do?’ She’s been part of my life for more than 13 years, and I’m so unbelievably grateful to be able to have her support in everything we do.”
Her husband, Tim McEneny, is a local fixture in the restaurant industry. He opened Hotel Zaza in 2001, two locations of Dish restaurant, Front Room at the Lumen, and obar, an ultra-chic nightclub, all closed for a variety of reasons, but each was popular and critically acclaimed.
Today, he leads NL Group Hospitality, a company that breathes warmth and life into downtown Dallas and includes Dakota’s and its downtown neighbors Sloane’s Corner and Pizza Leila, both named after Tim and Meredith’s daughters. They also own and operate a catering company and some private resident-only lounges in high-rise residences downtown.
Their culinary partner is the immensely talented Ji Kang, who oversees culinary operations for NL Group and has contributed greatly to the success of the restaurants. Chef Kang’s worked in some of the country’s most notable kitchens, including Tom Collichio’s flagship restaurant, Craft NYC, and Stephen Pyle’s Samar here in Dallas.
Meredith loves Dakota’s. When she talks about it, it’s as though she is there, walking through the restaurant, commenting as things come into focus. “I love that (the) dining room is the same as it’s always been. The gas lanterns, the courtyard.” It reminds her of her hometown of New Orleans. “And the people you have here,” she continues, “every day. The managers, servers, the kitchen team. It takes a village. We have a great crew.”
What she loves most about it is that after almost 40 years, it’s still a thick fiber in Dallas’ dining tapestry. It’s still the place where people come to celebrate; it’s still a classic Dallas dining institution; it’s still the place where dozens of Dakota’s employees have called home for decades. I asked her what she likes the least about it, and she laughed. “The people think it’s just a steakhouse.”
Well, it’s in the name, after all.
Ji Kang has broadened the menu to include compelling non-steak options such as chicken piccata, lobster gnudi, and a lovely grain bowl. The soups and sides are brilliant, especially the aligot potato puree, the cacio e pepe risotto, and the lobster corn elote. If you are a meat eater, you will love every piece of Allen Brother’s beef in the house, especially the glorious beef Wellington. Yes, it’s a steakhouse, but it has something for everyone.
And while Dakota’s is the birthday girl, she’s not the only one at the party. There’s Sloane’s Corner and Pizza Leila.
Named for McEneny’s youngest daughter, Sloane’s Corner is a gem inside the Trammell Crow Center. Whereas Dakota’s has a unique subterranean coziness, Sloane’s Corner has a lovely patio in town in the heart of the city. It has a downtown casual vibe, meaning it’s not dressy or stuffy, but you don’t see diners in caps or athleisure wear there, either.
What Meredith loves most about it is “the food!” she said emphatically. “The food is amazing, so fresh, and there are lots of choices. And the patio is gorgeous.” Sloane’s Corner serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with menus developed by Chef Kang. From breakfast burritos to spinach gemelli with boar Bolognese at dinner, there is a dish for every eater. The menu changes seasonally, but right now, there are lovely squash and fig dishes on the menu.
I conducted a poll on a community Facebook group about attitudes toward downtown dining. “Parking is hard.” “It’s not convenient.” “What’s down there, anyway?” were some of the comments.
In reality, parking is a breeze in Trammel Crow Center, which is an easy 10-minute drive from the Park Cities. The garage is well-lit with plentiful spaces and an elevator takes you to the lobby brimming with spectacular works of art from the Crow Collection. Having dinner at Sloane’s Corner and spending half an hour taking in the art makes for an enjoyable night on the town.
I can’t conclude this story without mentioning Leila, Tim and Meredith’s eldest daughter and namesake of Pizza Leila, a Sicilian-style gourmet pizza restaurant that has earned recognition from the Washington Post, among others, as some of the best pizza in the country. This counter-service-only restaurant sells entire 12×18 pizzas that range from simple sauce, cheese, and bread to surprising and delicious. The BBQ Ribeye and Kimchi pizza and the Texas Brisket pizzas are crazy good. If you’re not up for a whole pizza, you can buy it by the square or just pick up a salad. If you’re not downtown, you can order from DoorDash.
Having spent almost four years as a therapist at Dallas Metrocare Services, Meredith would eventually like to return to her role as a Licensed Professional Counselor. In the meantime, she and her Dakota’s team are planning a year-long birthday party for the restaurant, which will include monthly specials and surprise giveaways for Dakota’s diners. To learn more about the birthday promotions, follow Dakota’s Steakhouse on social media and sign up for their emails here.
